Feature article

Domaine Vincey – Chardonnay and the character of Oger’ Grand Cru

Domaine Vincey kelder Ogeris

Côte des Blancs · Champagne · Tootja lugu

Väike perekonnatootja, kes villib oma šampanjat alates 2014. aasta saagist.

Domaine Vincey šampanjades saavad kokku küps Chardonnay, tammes kujunenud tekstuur ja Oger’ soolakas värskus. Selle Côte des Blancs’i väiketootja taga on Quentin Vincey ja Marine Vincey-Zabarino, kelle veinid pakuvad avastamist nii šampanjasõbrale kui ka neile, kes hindavad iseloomuga valgeid veine.

The Quentin family has grown grapes in Oger for eight generations. However, they only began making their own Champagnes with the 2014 harvest, which yielded around 4000 bottles. From that small beginning has grown a house where long experience in grape growing meets a willingness to experiment and a clear understanding of the kind of wine they want to make.

8

viinamarjakasvatajate põlvkonda Ogeris

2014

esimene oma šampanja, umbes 4000 pudelit

16 kuud

Grauves 2023 küpses pudelis pärmisettel

1529

pudelit Endogène’i (baasvein 2020)

Eight generations of grape growing

In the past, the Vincey family's harvest went to the local cooperative. Quentin wanted to take things from growing the grapes right through to the end of the process: to make the wine himself and learn how the character of the family's different vineyards is expressed in the bottle.

Kooperatiivis seguneb eri kasvukohtade saak ning üksikute külade ja viinamarjaistanduste eripära jääb tagaplaanile. Vincey seevastu tõstab esile Ogeri päritolu.

Starting their own production meant investment, acquiring new skills and waiting. Champagne needs time, and it took years for the first wines to reach the market. In the beginning they made small quantities, learned with every harvest and exchanged experience with other winemakers.

Domaine Vincey veinitegijad puidust Coquard-pressi juures

Together with Marine, Quentin has shaped Domaine Vincey into a producer focused on Chardonnay and its different sites. Alongside Oger, the house’s wines include cuvées from vineyards in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Grauves, for example. Each new wine is a chance to discover how differently the same grape variety can express itself in Champagne.

Marine kasvas üles Champagne’is, elas vahepeal Pariisis ja liitus Quentiniga ametlikult 2019. aastal.

Oger – küps puuvili ja soolakas värskus

Oger asub Côte des Blancs’is Avize’i ja Le Mesnil-sur-Oger’ vahel. See Grand Cru küla on Domaine Vincey kodu ning siinne Chardonnay kujundab suuresti ka maja käekirja.

Oger’ kaarjas ja osaliselt tuulte eest kaitstud nõlv soodustab viinamarjade küpsemist. Aedades kohtuvad eri paksusega savikihid ja nende all paiknev kriit. Siinsete veinide kirjeldustes korduvad küps puuvili, täidlus ja soolakas järelmaitse.

This combination plays an important part in Vincey's Champagnes. Alongside the fruit, mouthfeel comes to the fore: the wines can be broad and creamy while retaining freshness and a dry finish. This makes them interesting companions at the table too, where their texture suits scallops, fish in butter sauce or roast poultry, for example.

Talvised viinapuud Ogeris, taamal küla kirik ja nõlv
Oger ühel talvehommikul.

Vähene sekkumine, tähelepanelik jälgimine.

Domaine Vincey tööviis viinamarjaaiast keldrini.

The work begins in the soil

Making their own wines brought a change in the vineyard. Quentin began looking for alternatives to existing growing practices and moved towards organic and later biodynamic viticulture.

In this work, soil health, vine balance and vineyard biodiversity are important. Plant preparations and compost are used, and experience is shared with other growers working in the same way. Some of the vineyards are worked with horses.

Each plot is studied separately: how it reacts to drought or rain, when the grapes ripen and what kind of wine its harvest produces. This attention to the site continues in the cellar.

Ogeri cuvée viinapuud on istutatud aastatel 1937–1992. Umbes 90% neist on paljundatud sélection massale meetodil ehk vanade viinapuude pistikutest, mitte kloonidest. Maja vanim aed, Noyerots, istutati 1937. aastal – samal aastal, kui sündis vanaisa Jackie Vincey. Just sealt valiti ka 6000 punga uute viinapuude paljundamiseks.

Lõigatud Chardonnay viinapuu pistikud sélection massale jaoks
Sélection massale: pistikud uute viinapuude jaoks.

„Kui alustasime veinide tegemist, hoidsime eri aedu eraldi – see on Burgundia moodi töötamine –, et terroir’d paremini maitsta ja mõista, mida iga aed annab.“

Marine Zabarino, Domaine Vincey

Oak, natural yeasts and time

Central to Vincey's winemaking are a traditional wooden Coquard press, gravity-fed movement of the must and wild yeasts. Ageing in oak barrels helps shape the wines' texture and gives them time to develop slowly.

The base wines spend around a year in barrel on their lees. During this time they are constantly monitored and tasted. Maturation on the lees adds fullness to the mouthfeel, while slow oxygen exchange through the oak influences the wine’s development.

The second fermentation in bottle and a new stage of maturation then begin. Its length depends on the wine: for Grauves 2023, maturation on the lees in bottle lasted 16 months, while the current release of Endogène spent over four years in bottle before recorking.

The use of sulphites also depends on the specific wine and harvest. For Grauves 2023, for example, a small amount of sulphites was added at pressing, while none were added to the Endogène batch based on the 2020 base wine. The house’s approach is characterised by minimal intervention combined with careful monitoring.

Three wines in the diWine range

In our shop you can get to know Domaine Vincey through three wines: Grauves 2023, Oger and Endogène. They are united by Chardonnay, but each has its own site and method of production.

Lisaks meie valikus olevale kolmele veinile valmistab Vincey ka üksikaedade veine: Le Grand Jardin ja Coin Gris Ogeris, Chemin de Châlons ja Auge Le Mesnil-sur-Ogeris ning Les Vignes de Germinon Chouillys. Tirage au moût’ meetodil valmib peale Endogène’i ka Interlude. Samuti valmistab Vincey Coteaux Champenois’ vaikseid veine.

Domaine Vincey Grauves 2023 Premier Cru pudel

100% Chardonnay · Grauves Premier Cru

Grauves 2023 – Premier Cru Extra Brut

Grauves reveals another side of the Côte des Blancs. In the vineyards of this Premier Cru village, Chardonnay vines averaging 40 years of age grow on deep brown clay soil overlying Cretaceous chalk. The wine brings together fruit from slopes with several different aspects.

The 2023 Chardonnay was fermented and raised in French oak barrels. A year of barrel ageing was followed by 16 months of maturation in bottle, with recorking in January 2026. Dosage is 1 g/l, placing the wine in the very dry Extra Brut style.

Grauves is a good starting point for discovering the house: a single-village Chardonnay in which freshness is complemented by texture developed on the lees and in oak. 5918 bottles of this harvest were produced.

Toodetud pudeleid: 5918 | SO₂: 23 mg/l | Dosaaž: 1 g/l (2023).

Chardonnay · Oger Grand Cru

Oger – Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Oger bears the name of the house’s home village and brings together Chardonnay from several local vineyards. This cuvée helps you understand the central thread of the Vincey style: ripe fruit, a generous palate and saline freshness.

Making the wine in oak gives it a texture that comes through well in a larger glass and alongside food. Descriptions of earlier vintages of the Oger cuvée mention orchard and stone fruit, citrus and delicate nuances of pastry and nuts. The particular vintage determines which of these come more to the fore.

It pays to take your time getting to know Oger. As it warms slightly and opens up in the glass, you can better follow the layers of this Chardonnay and the evolution of its flavour.

Toodetud pudeleid: 5383 | SO₂: alla 10 mg/l | Dosaaž: 0 g/l (baasvein 2022).

Domaine Vincey Oger Grand Cru pudel
Domaine Vincey Endogène pudel

Chardonnay · Oger Grand Cru

Endogène – Oger Grand Cru, tirage au moût

Endogène is one of Domaine Vincey’s most distinctive wines. The grapes come from old vineyards on the lower part of the Oger slope, where yields are low and the clay soil is worked with horses.

The most interesting detail of this cuvée is the second fermentation. The name tirage au moût means that the sugar and yeasts needed for fermentation in bottle come from fresh grape must. The current release combines 90% base wine from 2020 with 10% must from 2021.

After a year in oak barrel, the wine was bottled under natural cork in September 2021. This was followed by more than four years of bottle maturation until the wine was disgorged by hand in January 2026. No dosage is added, and no sulphites have been added to this lot either.

With Endogène, two harvest years, old vines and long maturation tie together a whole series of considered choices. Only 1500 bottles of this release were made.

Toodetud pudeleid: 1529 | SO₂: 16 mg/l | Dosaaž: 0 g/l (baasvein 2020).

Domaine Vincey at diWine

Vincey adds to the diWine range with Oger Chardonnay and Champagnes whose texture has been shaped in oak. Grauves offers an insight into a new Premier Cru site, Oger introduces the house's home village, and Endogène shows the possibilities that using grape must in the bottle fermentation offers.

Domaine Vincey jõudis diWine’i valikusse pärast pikka eeltööd. Uurisin tootjaid ja jälgisin, mida teised veiniinimesed jagavad. Esimesel reisil ei õnnestunud mul nendega kohtuda. Järgmisel korral oli mul rohkem aega, helistasin uuesti ja sain teel Côte des Bari nende juurest läbi astuda. Maitsesin veine kohapeal ja need meeldisid mulle väga.

Kolm veini on üksteisest väga erinevad. Grauves on kergesti mõistetav ja mõnusalt veinine, Oger hästi tasakaalus ja suurepärase tekstuuriga ning Endogène lihtsalt eriline.

Timo Ilves, diWine

Iga veini juurest leiad lähemalt selle päritolu, valmistamisviisi ja konkreetse väljalaske andmed.

Grauves 2023 – Premier Cru Extra Brut

Champagne · Chardonnay
63,90 €

Premier Cru Chardonnay from Grauves, 2023 harvest: a year in oak, 16 months in bottle, 1 g/l dosage, unfined and unfiltered.

Oger – Grand Cru

Champagne · Chardonnay
71,90 €

Domaine Vincey's home-village Grand Cru: Chardonnay planted 1937–1992, oak barrels, bottle fermentation with the estate's own grape must, no dosage and no added sulphites.

Endogène – Grand Cru

Champagne · Chardonnay
122,90 €

Grand Cru from old Oger vines whose second fermentation uses 2021 grape must: base 2020, more than four years in bottle, no dosage and no added sulphites.

Kõik Domaine Vincey veinid (3) →

Talvise Ogeri ja sélection massale’i fotod: Domaine Vincey / Instagram @domainevincey

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