Caberrubia IX

The wine's story:

Caberrubia is Bodegas Luis Pérez's non-vintage Jerez wine from the El Corregidor estate in the Carrascal Alto pago. The producer's aim is to show the character of the vineyard rather than of the vintage as directly as possible: the wine is a blend of finos from separately aged vintages and is not fortified. Saca IX means the ninth bottling.

Bodegas Luis Pérez was founded in 2002 by Luis Pérez, a professor of oenology at the University of Cádiz and former Domecq winemaker, with his sons; the wines are made by Willy Pérez. Since 2013 the winery has made unfortified Jerez wines in the old style at El Corregidor, with the vineyard in the foreground.

Winemaking:

100% Palomino Fino from vines about 40 years old on albariza de barajuelas. Ripe bunches selected in early September are laid out in the sun to dry for 6–7 hours. The grapes are pressed gently and ferment in casks; in December the wine is racked off its lees, and it then ages biologically under flor for about three and a half years.

Tasting notes:

Rounded, warm and full, with the balance typical of barajuelas soil – this is how the producer describes the wine. Matthew Forster MW (Tim Atkin) finds a very fine flor influence in Saca IX, but also plenty of aldehydic heft.

Food pairing:

Ibérico ham and almonds – the saline flor and aldehydic depth suit salty snacks. Mushroom risotto; roast chicken; aged Manchego.

Ratings & accolades:

Tim Atkin – 95/100 (Saca IX)

Earlier bottling: Wine Advocate – 96/100 (Saca VIII)